A while ago, I received a beautiful Bengali Kantha silk saree from my friend in India, which inspired me to research the ways in which running stitch is used across regions. Many textile traditions share a similar method of layering fabric and stitching it together, yet the intention, rhythm, and visual language of the stitch can shift dramatically from one culture to another.

In Sindh and parts of southern Punjab, Gindi most often refers to the running stitch worked across the surface of a layered textile, commonly a rilli. Rather than naming the textile object itself, Gindi describes the act of securing layers through measured, deliberate stitching that moves visibly across the surface. The stitch becomes an integral part of both the structure and the final visual language of the textile.

Gindi stitches are typically arranged in repetitive, often geometric paths that travel steadily across the surface. The maker counts the length of each stitch and the space between them, maintaining a consistent rhythm as the surface unfolds. This counted quality lends a sense of order and balance, where emphasis lies not in imagery or narrative scenes, but in repetition, continuity, and endurance.

The surface beneath the Gindi stitching is frequently composed of reused Ajrak fabrics; at times, patchwork and appliqué are also formed from worn textiles. Rather than competing with what lies beneath, the stitching binds disparate fragments into a cohesive surface. In this way, Gindi functions less as embellishment and more as an organizing force, bringing together layers of material, memory, and time.

This leads to a possible understanding of the word Gindi itself. The term may be connected to ginti, meaning counting, a concept embedded directly in the practice of the stitch. Although Gindi may appear free-form, it is not improvised; it is measured, paced, and attentive. Each stitch follows another in sequence, reinforcing the idea that the value of the surface emerges through accumulation rather than singular motifs.

Seen in this light, Gindi prioritizes process over image. The visual impact arises from rhythm and restraint rather than decoration. The stitch records time, labour, and repetition, transforming the textile surface into one shaped as much by discipline as by creativity. Through Gindi, stitching becomes both structural and expressive, revealing a textile language grounded in continuity and care.

Bengali Kantha Saree

Sindhi Gindi Example (Modern Make from Plant-Dyed Kit)